In 2011, seven of Thailand’s popular dishes made it onto the list of the world’s 50 most delicious foods in an online poll by CNN International. Koon Thai Cuisine has taken them all into account – as did we when flipping through its menu.
Originating in Hong Kong, Koon Thai recently opened its third Guangzhou branch at Popark Shopping Mall, next to Guangzhou East Station. In typical food court fashion, the seating area is limited – you’ll be hard-pressed to find a table after 7 in the evening. As it should be in every Thai restaurant, the interplay of taste sensations is reflected on the menu, which offers dinner and lunch sets for two or four, as well as selections of chili salad, seafood (crab dishes are over RMB200), curry, rice and more.
However, the overzealous menu may go a bit too far. By that, we mean that it doesn’t accomplish what it sets out to do – offer a broad variety of authentic eats. The chef forgets to toss conspicuous prawns into our tom yam goong (RMB30), a distinguishing feature of the dish. Instead, the classic spicy and sour soup goes haywire, tasting more like lime juice and fish sauce.
India is not the only region that has excelled at exploring the world of curry. Thai curries, different from their Indian cousins in their use of herbs and aromatic leaves, are popular among tourists. The yellow curry beef flank (RMB55), with tender beef chunks doused in thick, mild-tasting yellow sauce, is a vivid example. Though tasty enough, sparse ingredients are bogged down by heavy coconut cream – not exactly a weight watcher’s delight. You might consider grabbing a glass of pomegranate soda (RMB20) to offset the gloop.
The pomelo salad with shrimp (RMB50) stands out among all other non-meat selections. Yam somo – or salads made with pomelo – are exclusive to Thailand. Broken off into small pieces, the pomelo, mixed with shrimp, peanuts and onions in chili sauce, tastes sweetly fresh.
In most Thai restaurants, diners will have access to a selection of homemade sauces. Koon Thai left us fairly disappointed on this front, as it features just one generic variety of sweet and spicy condiment upon request.
To wrap it up, though the service left us with few complaints, the dishes largely fall short of that spicy edge so adored in this royal cuisine. Chances are the chain has tried to adapt its recipes to suit local Cantonese preferences and lost its almighty flavors in the process.
Price: RMB120
Who’s going: Flirtatious mall rats, ignorant Thai fans
Good for: A manic attempt at classic Thai
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